You can make a latex mould/ mold of any reasonably sized object. I chose to make a mould / mold of an art card (a miniature measuring 2.5 x 3.5 inches that can be exchanged with other artists) of three sheep that I’d made from modelling material.

Allergies
Some people are allergic to latex, so please take the necessary precautions just in case. Use protective gloves and make sure the space you are using is well-ventilated. Always read the labels on any art materials that you buy.

What to use as a master:

Some materials work better than others, but most can be used:

• Plaster of Paris is the best as it draws moisture from the latex causing it to thicken.
• Clay is suitable but should be dried or kiln fired first.
• Wood is apparently suitable, although I’ve never tested this one out.
• Non-porous materials can be used, although metal can react with latex and weaken the mould. You will need to use the paint-on method or a coagulate(not used here) with this type of material.
• Reusable putty/plasticene can be used but reduces the life of the mould.

For this project you will need:

• a clay/plaster object to use as a master
• liquid latex
• latex thickener (optional, with some brands of latex it isn’t necessary to use thickener)
• rubber gloves
• old brush
• plastic tub
• newspaper
• talcum powder
• scissors

Where can I buy latex art materials?

Dick Blick Art Materials sell a vast range of art materials. It is an art supplies company that is based in the US.

If you order over a certain amount, shipping can be free within the US, conditions apply. Orders placed from outside the US will have a different shipping charge and may be subject to import duty. (Click on the shipping information link at the bottom of the page on Dick Blick Art Materials for details.)

Methods for creating a latex mould/mold

There are two methods to use when creating a latex mould:

1. Dipping method: The instructions for this brand of latex told me to “Use this method for materials that are porous.” However, two things happened: one, the latex poured off the object and, two air bubbles formed in the latex. To get rid of the air bubbles it says in the instructions, “dip the object in again for a few seconds and with a brush burst the bubbles that form and spread the latex more evenly over the surface. Do this a few times until the latex turns to a paste which stops more bubbles appearing. Dip again and then leave for about 20 minutes, before removing and allowing any surplus to drip off. A mould which is thick enough should have formed” This seems great in theory. In reality, the latex ran off the object more than it stayed on. I’m sure that other people can get this method to work, but if all else fails go on to Plan B, the paint-on method.
2. Paint-on method: I recommend that you use an old unloved brush for this as it does tend to cling to the bristles and resist all attempts to clean it off. The bristles shouldn’t be too stiff either as it seems easier to paint the latex on with a softer brush. The best way of doing it was to paint a layer and allow it to part dry, before adding the other layer. “if the object is non-porous it will tend to run”, say the instructions, “so only thin layers can be applied”. Although my object was porous, the latex tended to run anyway.

Latex thickener: If you get too disheartened about the latex being too runny, you can always turn to latex thickener, but this is optional and not always available (or advisable). This is the last chance saloon of successful latex mould making. The assistant at my local art shop gave this advice: “Latex thickener helps, but don’t add too much or it will make the latex brittle”.

[Click here for a SLIDESHOW]

Liquid latex
This brand of latex was incredibly runny and difficult to use. I resorted to using a latex thickener. Always read the label on whatever type you decide to use.

Latex thickener
Latex thickener supposedly makes the latex easier to apply. Don't add too much as it makes the latex brittle. Check the brand you are using allows you to use latex thickener.

Step One
I added a small amount of the latex thickener before starting to coat the object. It does make the solution a little thicker, but it isn't noticeably different. However, I did manage to coat the object with a few layers.

Step Two
After a while though my patience was wearing thin. I cheated and decided to pour the latex over the object, which was placed on top of a plastic lid to contain the liquid. It didn't tell me to do this in the instructions, but I'd gone beyond caring what they said.

Step Three
Luckily, I'd put a layer of newspaper underneath the plastic lid and any leaks went onto that. I jabbed at any bubbles that appeared with my brush. Tip: The best way of cleaning your brush afterwards is to use warm water and a big blob of washing up liquid. You need to pull the latex off the bristles.

Step Four
I left the latex to dry overnight. To remove the mould, I sprinkled a little talcum powder over it to stop it sticking to itself and peeled it off. I trimmed off the excess around the edges with a pair of scissors. And tah-dah, I had a latex mould.

Step Five
The finished article doesn't look that impressive but is in fact incredibly detailed. It even picked up the marks I didn't want it to. Unfortunately I tore a hole in the latex while I was peeling it off.

Verdict for making a latex mould/mold

Tip: The best types of masters are porous materials such as plaster or clay. Non-porous masters are a little trickier.

Pros: A latex mould is long-lasting and can be used several times. Latex can pick up fine details and is easy to remove from the object.

Cons: The latex for the brand that I used was incredibly runny until it started to set, making it tricky to coat certain objects. You can partially overcome this problem with latex thickener (see above) or coagulant (not used here). Or you can try ArtMolds KreemTex Latex that, according to the manufacturer, can be brushed or sprayed on (not used here).

Other pages of interest:

How to cast plaster of Paris in a latex mould/mold